Rygsækrejsen 2015-2016: Finding the secret temples of Bagan

We set out early this morning. Before sunrise. The agreement with the shop next door was that we could pick up the e-bike at 5:30 AM so at 5:35 we headed down the road - pitch black darkness. And dead quiet. After some five kilometres we turned off the road and onto a gravel road and had a few problems driving in a straight line through all the loose gravel. We made it to the right pagoda and there was already some 10 other people on the top judging from the number of flip-flops and shoes left at the stairs. So we climbed to the top and sat there. It is cold in the morning. Not like European cold but maybe around 20 degrees so we were happy to have brought our big sweaters.

And so we sat there for the next hour and a half dawn slowly approaching, the horizon getting lighter and the temples appearing out of the darkness one by one. It was a good place to have an overview of the major temples of Bagan and also due to the fact that we could see the balloons getting ready in the distance. Suddenly - at official sunrise time - they all took off and floated just above the tree line. Once they had an idea of the direction of the wind they slowly changed altitude and drifted towards us a few of them getting really close. We waved back to the guys in the basket as they drifted over us and towards the horizon.

We stayed on the top of the pyramid until 7:30, most people leaving at 7 so we had the last hour more or less to ourselves. Even the guys selling souvenirs headed down to his moped and left with all his "hand-painted" souvenirs. Before heading back for breakfast we decided to go visit one more temple - Sulamani. One of the big ones in the area. It is perhaps one of the secrets of Bagan - go visit temples when everybody is going for breakfast between 7 and 9 in the morning. The place felt deserted, like we had it all to ourselves execpt for a couple of squirrels running around.

Then we headed back for breakfast leaving our e-bike at the rental place to get re-charged. After breakfast some quiet time on the bed the rest of the morning. We checked out of Royal Bagan Hotel, walked 10 minutes and checked in to our next place, Golden Crown motel - door, beds, bathroom - everything we need. Then pick up the e-bike and head to the far side of Bagan, visiting Izzy Gawna, Winido temple, Tayok Pyi, Thamanpaya and some ten or more temples.

At Winido temple the local caretaker - a woman with a key - appeared out of nowhere and offered us roof top access. This must be the secret of Bagan temple visits. Bump into the right person at the right time. We climbed to the top and had a unspoiled view of most of Bagan and all the temples. And a friendly lady to explain a little about the temples.

Back on the e-bike we continued down the road to see more temples. Some of them we walked around - and inside when possible, others we just enjoyed from the road. And of course we passed countless more smaller and larger temples and pagodas on the way.

It got warmer and warmer in the afternoon so we decided to have one last stop at Dhamma-ya-za-ka - the big golden pagoda that is visible in most of Bagan. Walking around the outside of the temple Mikkel suddenly spotted a swarm of bees and then Buddha wasn't so interesting. The bees flew away and we headed back to the e-bike and drove towards New Bagan and found a place to sit down, rest and have a cold beer.

On the way back to the hotel we did last stops at Mingalar Zedi, Shwe San Daw Pagoda and finally at the Dhammayangyi temple which was really busy in the afternoon. Our e-bike took us back to the hotel where we power napped before heading back to Bulethi pagoda where we also watched the sun rise this morning. Now it was time for sunset and this time sharing the top with at least some 30 other people. Due to clouds and pollution the sun disappears about an hour before official sunset and so you never get the long shades from the temples, but at least we got to see the light changing going more dark yellow and orange. Then we headed back one final time, dropped off the e-bike, had our laundry back, went to the hotel, rested some more before dinner. What a long and interesting day. We are templed out. Looking forward to our bus ride tomorrow and just relaxing a bit.