Rygsækrejsen 2015-2016: Crossing the border into Uzbekistan

Mikkel was also in the cook group this morning so he got up really early to do pancakes with the other guys. The cook groups usually do two meals in a row. The sun came up around 6:30 and looked really nice covering the desert in yellow light. Wasn't in a hurry so we had time to enjoy the morning, pancakes with home made dulce de leche before driving. First a stop at a local market in the big town before the border. From the selection of pickled salads it's easy to see that we a getting closer to the far east.

So what kind of country is Turkmenistan? It's definitely an interesting, strange, closed and also very different country from others we have ever travelled before. Turkmenistan is not really interested in having tourist – so it seems from the whole visa procedure and struggles when you cross the border. There are things you can´t say in the streets, in the restaurants or in the hotel rooms. You never know if/or where there are hidden microphones or cameras. You're really not allowed to walk around or travel around on your own you have to have a local guide to show you chosen places. You can get a 5 days transit visa but you'll most likely be taken to the same sights as we were if you try to book transportation to any sights. And the guide will tell you where you can take pictures.Well we did take more pictures than just at the designated stops, it wasn't a problem to take pictures from the truck. Ashgabat was rich in white marble buildings but lacked everything in atmosphere. It felt claustrophobic even though there were no people – or probably because there were none. The gas crater was an experience you just don't see everyday - the hassle with the visa and border crossing was worth it. Would I recommend people to visit? Yes – but definitely in a combination with another country – and no. It's an interesting experience but you don't fall in love with country (Malene didn't). Much is a facade. Have you been to North Korea you have some kind of idea of Turkmenistan.

Bordercrossing was expected to be so-so – like always. 4 hours, 6 hours, 8 hours? Nobody really knows. We had help from our local guide, Slava, filling in exit forms, before the truck took us through no-mans land (5 km) to reach the Uzbeki side of the border. At the last gate and check at the Turmenistan side of the border there were two young guards. They were very interested in getting a beer and some chewing gum from the truck which they got. The border is more or less officially closed, it's very expensive for Uzbeki and Turkenish people to cross, so we were the only vehicle passing through – at all. A German couple also tried their luck with the border crossing but they hadn't planned for any transport through the no-mans land. In +30 degrees celcius they got a free ride with us. That must have used up their luck for today.

More forms and passport checks and stamps on the Uzbeki side. It was more or less without problems except we had to fill in the same form twice. And then the usual wait for the truck. Sometimes it's everything out of the truck (the driver has to take care of that). Today it was only a two hour wait. Our Uzbeki guide Jalol was there to greet us, so he had arranged shade (much needed) and cold water from the local store. When the truck finally made it through we did lunch and watermelon and prepared for the last 1½ hours of driving to the city of Khiva.

Nice hotel. Got a hot shower and clean clothes. And we had a lovely meal in the nice warm evening. Wonderful day again.