Heading for Nicaragua - Costa Rica to Nicaragua with the local bus

Pick up from our hostel at 6 AM. Our friendly taxi driver was a bit sceptical about the bus terminal we wanted to go to. It was not the one he would go to but we insisted, were taken to the bus terminal we thought was the right one and realised we hadn't paid attention to the girl at the hostel when she had told us where to go - and where not to go. Just as our taxi driver had told us we had to go to another of San Jose's many bus terminals.

Luckily the right one with the buses heading for the border crossing at Peñas Blancas was more or less around the corner so we were there in 5 minutes, our taxi driver told us where to go for tickets and then we only had to wait for 30 minutes for the next departure. The bus was "local", a bit crowded but still comfortable. We drove for about 2 hours, then the bus driver stopped at a big cafeteria and we had time for some much needed breakfast - but why does this always happen when you have stocked up on food?

Our GPS estimated 5½ hours of driving to the border. We made it by bus in less then 6 hours, being at the border just after 1 PM. As soon as we made it out of the bus a woman pointed us towards the small house where we had to pay the exit tax. While Malene took care of that, Mikkel got the luggage and figured out where everybody else were heading for immigration and the mandatory goodbye-stamp in the passport. Only a short line on the Costa Rican side of the border and only a short form to fill out meant that we were out of Costa Rica in less then 45 minutes.

Then we did a short walk across the no-mans-land towards Nicaragua and once we passed the first tent full of police officers things started to be a little more opaque so we had to ask where to go next, and next, and next and eventually we realised that we had made it through passport checks, re-checks, forms and stamps. USD 12 per person and we were welcome in Nicaragua. Then we just had to back track a bit to find a taxi that could take us to the nearest big town - Rivas.

The border crossing took less than two hours - both sides included. We were not asked for any documents or proof of onward travel as we had heard and read about from other travellers. We did have a ticket booked for departing Nicaragua we could show, but neither at yesterdays border crossing nor at the one today was this a question. Border crossings were a bit slow but everybody treated us really nice.

Having an open and loud argument in Danish in front of the taxi drivers is a speciality for us. It means that only the bravest and hungriest are left to drive us. It also worked this time and the guy took us to Rivas for USD 20. We couldn't agree on the price to go all the way to Popoyo so he dropped us off at the bus station. From there we got another local taxi to take us to Popoyo - another half hour for USD 30.

It turned out to take a bit longer than that since the small village between Rivas and Popoyo celebrated their annual cowboy festival that day meaning total traffic meltdown. So we were stuck between locals, horses and cowboys for an hour before we got to Popoyo and the place we are going to stay for the next couple of days.

We got our room, headed for the beach and were happy to be here, ready to meet with our friends. We knew that they were on their way from the US and that they would arrive late in the evening. Dinner at the restaurant at Magnific Rock, enjoying the sun set and then we soon went to bed after two long days of travelling, Mikkel was the only one to hear the taxi arrive just before midnight when Frederik and Berit made it to the place after some 24 hours of non-stop travelling. Big hugs and sleep well. Ready for more beach tomorrow.

6 AM  - ready again

Ready for another day on the road

Bus tickets sorted - just have to wait a bit

We've been here - many years ago

Mid-morning break

The usual chaos for getting our bags from the bus

First real queue today - to exit Costa Rica

Walking across no-mans-land between Costa Rica and Nicaragua

Finally with the taxi towards Rivas

Almost like home

Traffic jam in the middle of nowhere. The annual cowboy festival to blame

Young to-be cowboy

Most wonderful sunset at Popoyo. We can take many more of those

Posing on the beach

Our "hostel" at the top of the rock

Heading for Nicaragua - Panama to Costa Rica with the lazy shuttle

Leaving Panama today after 3 fantastic weeks. It's been great here. Panama meant beach time and we got to see and stay on some fantastic beaches. 5 days in San Blas on our almost private island where there were more coconuts than people. The chilled surfer town Santa Catalina and the amazing Isla Coiba where we snorkled and tried a Discover dive - white sand beaches and beautiful underwater scenery. And now we're saying goodbye to Bocas del toro and our lovely Bambuda lodge where we've relaxed and enjoyed the scenery the last couple of days.

Long day ahead today hopefully we'll be in San Jose, Costa Rica not too late in the evening. We did our best to stay quiet walking around the dorm at the hostel this morning. Trying not to wake up any of the other 9 guys sleeping. Once done with last bits and pieces in the back packs we headed down to the pier, waited for a water taxi and were on the other side with time to spare. We took a short walk in town and had some bread at the bakery for breakfast before boarding the boat to the mainland.

30 minutes later at we arrived on the small harbour on the mainland and had our luggage secured on the roof of the minibus that was going to take us - well, only to the border. Once there we realised that it was busy this morning. Like really busy with long lines for those who wanted to exit Panama. Our driver showed us to the right line which luckily was the short one and then it took 30 minutes to get the "bye bye"-stamp in the passports. Then we had to find another small office, wait in line for another 20 minutes to pay the tourist tax and then drag our luggage over the bridge crossing the river.

And then another line - this one longer than before but who cares. We had great company. Bridie and Claire from the hostel were also in the line so they could entertain us a bit. 1½ hours later and we had paid entry fees and got our official stamp in the passports and were now in the next shuttle bus. This one taking us - well, not all the way to San Jose, but to Puerto Viejo where we were many years ago.

We were dropped off at a small hotel and had lunch in the garden and waited for shuttle bus number three to arrive. We left for San Jose at around 2 PM the drive supposed to be four hours or so. On the way passing by a few of the places we also passed by on our last visit barely recognising them. Some things have happened since our last visit. On the way to San Jose we also realised that our driver thought we had to be dropped off at the airport. Some kind of missing link with us and his office so they hadn't gotten the information about us staying in a hostel in San Jose. He was nice though and dropped us off in front of the hostel, we had the key to our room and headed out for some dinner next to our hostel. On the way back we picked up a bit of the snacks and drinks for our early morning tomorrow.

One more day on the road awaiting us with another border crossing. 12 hours on the road today seemed like a long day. Taxi pick up is at 6 AM tomorrow.

6 AM - all packed and ready to go

Waiting for the taxi boat

First boat - to Bocas

Next boat - to the mainland

Loading the minibus - next leg to the border

Loooong queue at the border - to exit Panama

Must find the right line

The line to enter Costa Rica - about 1½ hours of waiting in direct sunshine - or rain

Shade - hurrah

Next minibus - heading for San Jose

Finally at the hostel - after 11 hours of travelling

Yes, we know we are in Costa Rica

The not-so-direct bus to Cuenca (Mancora-Cuenca)

We do research a bit before travelling overland, especially when we have to do long distances or when crossing borders. Today it was a border crossing and prior to buying bus tickets the other day we had Google'd the trip from Mancora to Cuenca in Ecuador. Turns out that there are limited options for bus tickets and that the Ecuadorian company CIFA who runs the only direct service has a shady reputation. There are at least tons of stories about people who have experienced being mugged or robbed in the buses.

So the other day we decided for a day bus and according to the ticket agents there were tons of options. Turns out - there wasn't. We were at our agent at 9:30 AM and then we waited for about an hour. Still nothing. A nice lady came by and said "25 minutes". We waited for another half hour and then we got put on a collectivo that started to go up and down the main street of Mancora looking for more passengers - which there of course weren't. After spending 20 minutes doing that our driver decided to head for Tumbes and we were on the way only slowing down or stopping occasionally to pick up more passengers or to get gas from a local kiosk.

When we got to Tumbes the other passengers got off and our driver told us to stay on. Then he headed 500 metres down the road and asked for 10 Soles - his service fee to take us to the CIFA ticket office. Still not having a proper bus ticket we handed the ticket agent receipt to the lady at the desk and waited a while for her to issue a CIFA bus ticket that clearly said "connexion". We tried to ask where the connection was and were told "on the other side of the border" which could mean anywhere until Cuenca.

Then we waited for a while, the bus driver getting dressed - in the bus, before we were allowed to board. There were around 10 of us when we left Tumbes at 1:30 PM not having done many kilometres that morning. It was a short drive to the border, an uncomplicated border crossing with entry and exit desk in the same room (more countries could learn from that) and when everybody had the paperwork done the bus left for the border town Huaquillas. There we stopped at the bus station and the bus filled up with passengers. No word about our connection except - stay on the bus. We drove for about one more hour and suddenly the bus attendant told us to get off.

We unloaded our stuff in a roundabout near the town of Machala. And a young guy with a walkie talkie took us straight through three lanes of traffic to the other side where his combined fruit stall and ticket office issued us a new piece of paper. This time a ticket to Cuenca. Then we waited for about half an hour and suddenly a bus appeared - and we were told to get on. This bus headed for Cuenca, filled up with passengers in the nearby town and sped off into the mountains stopping to let people on and off along the road. We made it to the outskirts of Cuenca around 8:30 PM and got of the bus when it seemed to be close to our hostel. From the plaza where it stopped we took a taxi 5 minutes and were at the hostel just before 9 PM - having made the bus ride in a little less than 12 hours. Not impressive. Maybe we've gotten too used to good buses in Peru.

The hostel was nice, we had food at the lounge area at the hostel including Swiss Rösti pancake. We felt a bit tired and sometimes non-local food is just a nice break from South American chicken and rice.

Last morning on the beach for this time

See you later buddy

Ready for 20 minutes of tuk-tuk

Some kind of procession - nice entertainment

Going up an down the main street with the collectivo

Fueling the collectivo - seems legit

At the CIFA bus station

Not too busy this afternoon

Technically in Ecuador - at the border at last

Dropped off in some roundabout

Bus office and melon salesman sharing office

At the hostel in Cuenca - finally