søndag den 3. maj 2015

Great day out at a picnic place

Got picked up by a taxi at 6:15. On a Sunday morning. Beautiful morning though. Dropped of 15 minutes later at Salar station – a local stop somewhere in the city. The reason for being there at this time of day was an invitation. Nico has a couchsurfer friend who lives in Tashkent and although he had never met him, he invited us to tag along on an invitation for a day trip to the mountains. The beauty of the internet.

The train wasn't until 7:15 so we had plenty of time to hang out and look for the mysterious friend who had been writing a short message to Nico as instructions. Something like – “meet at Salar station, we'll find you, if not, take train 1½-2 hours”. Great. Especially since the guys profile picture at the couchsurfers website was only a pair of feet and a deckchair. Hardly something we could recognise on a station with around 100 other travellers waiting for the train. So we waited. Together with an ever increasing group of other travellers. There is this thing about trains in Uzbekistan that they do not run that often. We realised that in Samarkand when we went to the station there and the list of services for the whole day was limited to 20 arrivals and departures in total.

Suddenly an officially looking guy started to shout something in Uzbek and the crowd of people moved towards the ticket office. Since we didn't know where we were going it was a bit hard to go there and ask for a “1½-to-2 hours ticket”. A young woman was standing at the platform and when we asked her about help and that we only knew we were going to a picnic place she said “no worries, I'm studying at the English language center and we're also going to the picnic place. Like everybody else here!”. And so we got tickets. 3200 Som per ticket. Less than 1 US Dollar.

More people had arrived so the station was feeling quite packed. Now the official shouted something again. And the crowd moved down the platform. So did we still no sign of Nico's friend. But we had a ticket now so we were ready to go with the flow. Suddenly a guy approached Nico and it turned out to be his friend. They were actually a small group of friends, three of them and a fourth joining a bit later.

A train approached the station but when it stopped it was not at the platform, it was a bit away. A few people walked across the tracks and boarded the train which seemed to only carry a few soldiers. A few minutes later another train approached the station. Still no announcements or signs. This time the train was heading the wrong direction though. Waiting a bit more and then our train. Got on in a hurry and when we left the station the train was absolutely packed. So we stood up for the next two hours the train slowly making its way towards the mountains.

After two hours the train was still packed with people. The train stopped and it turned out to be the end of the line. It was a small station in the mountains, a bit chaotic with all the people getting off the train. So we waited for a minute, also because our new friends waited for a fourth friend to show up. Suddenly we were asked to do an interview with Uzbek TV. Being asked questions about how we like Uzbekistan and about travelling. So we said the nicest things we could come up with.

The friends got a little impatient so we hurried after them up the hillside and into a small valley. One of them was carrying a large backpack and a barbecue. The ones they use for shashliq. Turns out the guys had stocked up on food and drinks. After a bit of reconnaissance a suitable place was chosen with a bit of shade, next to the small stream. And so we stayed there for the rest of the day.

First thing to do – drinks in the cold stream. Then collect firewood for the barbecue while they were doing the first set of shashliq. Liver and fat (tastes a lot better than in sounds). Some bread on the side, the shashliq ready and we had the first serving of the day. Really good. Then hanging out, having a nap, talking, laughing, telling stories from our home countries. Second round of shashliq this time with beef getting ready, some salad and third round also. In other words – we got shashliq'ed out. It turned out the guys had brought one kilo of liver and 2½ kilos of meat so no wonder we felt a little full. We cleaned up our little camp and headed back for the station late in the afternoon knowing that the last train had left, but we agreed to pay for a taxi. They did the negotiations and the first leg of taxi was to the nearest town. There we took another taxi to Tashkent and then a third taxi to our hotel. All in all two hours of taxi driving for around 30.000 Som. Less than ten US dollars.

Jumped in the pool at the hotel to cool down after a full day on the mountain and two hours stuck in a very small taxi. Looking back at a fantastic day. Sometimes it really pays off to grab the opportunity to go on an adventure which you have no idea of how will turn out. Had a cup of tea for dinner. Still shashliq'ed out.

Getting ready for tomorrows drive to Ferghana Valley.

Salar train station

Snickers for breakfast -what we could buy in the train
Packed train

Everybody getting off at the end station
Nico and Mikkel


Malene getting interviewed for Uzbeki television
Mikkel getting interviewed for Uzbeki television



Hiking to our picnic place
The fridge



The Uzbekis preparing the shasliqs




Nap after shasliqs
Preparing more shasligq - round 3
Picnic group

lørdag den 2. maj 2015

Tashkent metro tour, swimmingpool and tourist trap

Jalol offered to take us on an extra city walk to show us their famousmetro. Every station is unique with the impressive architecture and nice decorations (Hey Danish Metro people you could learn something here!). We got out at a couple of stations and amongst the different themes there are the astronaut the nature and the stations which marks the Olympics. It's also not allowed to take pictures in the metro or at the underground stations for security reasons.

This city walk was only for a couple of hours so after the metro trip we had a short walk around the city to see the center, a park and some monuments. Some people went home and some of us went to a local restaurant Jalal recommended. You can see the cooks cooking the food and it's always very packed. We had some great noodles and really enjoyed to watch them cook.

Mikkel went to the market afterwards and Malene decided to go back to the hotel to enjoy the sun and the swimming pool. It's the first time we've been able to use the pool in a hotel because many of them don't have water in them yet.

The market was quite impressive with a separate section devoted only to meat. Not like a small corner. No, more like 100 butchers in one big arena-like building. Separate sections of everything – big market. Still difficult to find a pair of shorts for Mikkel. Not that my “personal shopper” didn't try but he failed to find something I wanted.

A couple of people in the group had their last evening on the trip – Charles, Leslie, Emer – so we all went out for dinner at a restaurant Jalol chose. Unfortunately it was a totally tourist trap with very expensive food but not very good food and horrible band who went from table to table playing tourist songs. An evening we thought would be a fun night out ended up being quite a dull evening and people went to bed early.

Local Tashkent bus



Metro decoration

Tashkent metro

The Ezgulik arch








Traidtional food - variation of Pilaf



Dicing meat for the stew

Noodles, egg and meat



Counting money - "Uzbek soup"




Chorsu Bazaar

Meat market in Tashkent



fredag den 1. maj 2015

Tashkent - trip to the opera to see Oltin Qalam

After a quiet morning in Samarkand we drove to Tashkent after lunch. First stop for everyone was the laundry place and then lunch – with a few shasliqs again.

Nico got the idea to go see an opera in the evening so me, Charles, Neil and Nico went there. Mikkel was supposed to join but he fell a sleep and was too tired when we were leaving. We didn't have tickets when we arrived to the opera and it seemed like the ticket office was closed even though there were quite a few people around. A guy came and led us up some stairs while he kept asking if we were journalists. We didn't really understood why. Then we came to a foyer and the guy opened a door and showed us inside. The opera hall was full of people and there was singing and dancing going on when we went in. We also didn't really understand why we didn't have to pay and why we could just choose a seat. After the singing and dancing the host couple came on stage and did a lot of talking and slowly we realised it wasn't opera but a journalist award show – the OltinQalam, the Golden pen. Expect from the awards talks – which we hardly understood a word of - the show was interesting with different local dances and songs.

After the award show we decided to walk back to the hotel. It was a nice evening and a lot of people were out in the streets because it was a holiday. We also got the first impression of the city and definitely got the feeling of the Soviet influence.

It started to turn dark after and hour or two and after a wrong turn we decided to jump into a taxi since we still had to walk while. It was an interesting trip back in the taxi the taxi driver didn't really know the hotel or the street even though we showed him a card from the hotel with several streets on it. It's quite common the drivers don't know the streets because they change once in a while and a lot of people only know the Russian names. The next day we learned that it's better to tell a monument, an embassy or likewise to get to the right place. We did end up quite close to the hotel and walked the last kilometer home. Which turned out quite good because we found a small noodle restaurant which seemed like a nice change from the shasliqs. Before dinner we went to the hotel to pick Mikkel up and it was definitely a success to go to the noodle restaurant.



On the road to Tashkent

No need to argue


Laundry basement

Oltin Qalam




Traditional Uzbek singing and dancing





Spicy food